Taco Republic: In a Shell
It takes three to taco at Taco Republic of Kansas City, Kansas. This food truck-turned-brick-and-mortar Taqueria, made quite a splash in the Kansas City restaurant community. Having enjoyed three street tacos this afternoon, I can say the joint lived up to all the buzz.
After experiencing friendly service and delicious tacos, it was no surprise to learn that Taco Republic is a Bread & Butter Concepts production. While many restaurants would shy away from setting up kitchen in the nationally acclaimed BBQ joint Oklahoma Joe’s back yard, Taco Republic accepted the challenge willingly.
So just how are they doing?
If the full house that filled the indoor seating and overflowed onto the outdoor patio during the two o’clock lunch hour is any indication of business, it’s booming!
Off the Streets & to the Table
It is not just saucy BBQ meat bringing traffic to the otherwise lightly traversed County Line Road in Kansas City, Kansas. These street tacos demand attention (and a handful of napkins, too). With a menu full of temptations, it helps to narrow the list down to two or three selections. Our server advised this, so we could sample the slew of street tacos that inspired this Taquieria’s namesake.
After noshing on a bushel of chips and dip, it was time to make some hard decisions about which soft corn tortilla tacos I would sample. The verdict? Pork Pastor, Chicken Ortiz, and Camarones. From pork to shrimp, I was satisfied that all of my bases were covered.
The Juicy Details
With an approximately 15-minute turnaround, I had time to enjoy the special ingredients that give Taco Republic such an eclectic feel. From oversized fans to powder blue walls balanced by neutral textiles, the interior space is as aesthetically appealing as the tacos are tasty.
Another element that added a nice touch was the open kitchen that’s become a staple in many newer restaurants. Unlike some renditions I have seen, this open kitchen model didn’t interrupt the ebb and flow of the inside dining area. Rather, it seemed to be a natural transition from dining quarters to kitchen. It also lacked the pompous feel that a glassed-in or roped-off open kitchen can sometimes have.
Tacos Trio
PORK PASTOR
Pork Pastor novices and fanatics alike can agree that this taco is an absolute must. After bathing in a sweet pico de piña marinade and being sprinkled with cilantro, the tender pork concoction was wrapped in a warm corn tortilla. In just one bite, the juice that is sweet enough to be its own cocktail dripped onto my plate. Those seeking a street taco with robust flavor and nothing too frou-frou have found their perfect match.
CAMARONES
When I stumbled across the fried shrimp taco topped with pickled red onions, slaw, and — just for good measure — cilantro-lime aioli, I didn’t think twice about adding it to the mix. I was as pleased when the bright-colored hues that comprised the shrimp taco, breaking away from traditional fried fish variations, arrived. I’m also a sucker for aiolis, because, well, they’re made of egg yolk deliciousness.
What came out warm went down a little cold, which was my fault because I was feeling full and sluggish after finishing my Pork Pastor taco. Despite the semi-cold shrimp, it offered everything you would want from a seafood taco. While this selection was tasty, I plan to sample the Del Mar, which comes complete with blackened Tilapia, guacamole, and pico next time. Although the garlic sauce addition seems a little out of place, I am eager to give the Del Mar a go upon my return.
ORTIZ
To complete my taco trio, I ordered an obligatory chicken item. I say obligatory, because the restaurant boasts about their wood-fired chicken. Although I avoid most poultry dishes when dining somewhere new, the chimichurri, grilled corn, caramelized onion,
sautéed peppers, and queso fresco ingredients intrigued me. However, what I hoped would offer bolder flavor seemed mediocre at best. The culprit? The diced and “marinated” chicken seemed a wee bit dry despite being blanketed with succulent ingredients. In fact, I didn’t taste much flavor when I forked a piece of chicken by itself. On my next visit, I would skip this taco and give the Mole or shredded chicken taco a try.
By the time I finished nibbling on all three tacos, I had forgotten about the two sides that are complimentary with a three-taco purchase. Before throwing in the towel, I mustered up the will to try a bite of the ranchero beans and cilantro-plablano rice. The rice was solid, although I would opt for black beans in the future (I like my frijoles soupy). At this point I was as stuffed as a Thanksgiving turkey and signaled our server for the check.
The Verdict
Taco Republic is as wonderful as its famous next door neighbor. It offers a fun indoor and outdoor environment, quick and friendly service, and a menu full of creative street taco combinations. Although I was partial to the Pork Pastor and Camarones, I will definitely be back to enjoy more offerings from the Taco Republic.
And despite my massive spread, which included a drink, chips and salsa, and three tacos with two sides, my meal rang in at just 13 dollars. You simply couldn’t ask for a more fairly priced meal.
My final bit? Limit it to two tacos and skip the sides; less is more.